The fashion industry, in all its aspects, has been hit and continues to suffer due to the Covid-19 pandemic, as an integral part of global economy. Beyond its allure of creativity and glamour, campaigners for a sustainable, ethical fashion industry have long pushed for change of the ways in which it operates. For instance, the UK and US fashion industry bodies recently issued a joined statement demanding an industry reset, while thousands of designers worldwide also demand systemic change. The main culprits have been the differences in production cost and retail prices, outsourcing manufacturing for cheaper work, encouraging extreme consumerism, or the adverse environmental impact of both production and disposal.
As the world was shutting down to prevent the spread of the virus, the first victims in the fashion industry were the workers in textile factories throughout Asia. Women were also the most affected, as they form the bulk of textile workers in countries like Bangladesh, where they otherwise would have little opportunities to find well-paid jobs. Also, like in Myanmar, female garment workers are also likely to fall victim to domestic abuse. The situation is even more complicated for Chinese workers, with outcries against poor factory conditions, salaries and product qualities for years. China is still one of the biggest exporters of mass-produced cheaper items for domestic companies and foreign subsidiaries, and Chinese authorities claim it can resume its role in the near future. The prospects are even more concerning for garment workers, as political and economic relations between China and the rest of the world have been paralyzed both by the direct and indirect repercussions of the crisis and lock-down measures. Entrepreneurs worldwide suffered and the thought of employee safety and potential contamination could hinder the industry even more in the future.
''Shopping is indeed one of the main aspects of tourism, particularly to the so-called “fashion capitals”.''
On the consumption side, empty high streets mean severe losses for the retail sector. Businesses who could not adapt to online sales practices saw closing down stores and cancelling orders as effectively cutting any expected revenue to cover basic expenses. Shopping is indeed one of the main aspects of tourism, particularly to the so-called “fashion capitals,” where shops and stores depend largely on the influx of foreign buyers, nowadays mainly from China.
While innately exclusive and expensive, high fashion was not immune either. Social distancing measures dictated that otherwise lavish specific events were automatically cancelled. Complex events like the Fashion Weeks and , haute couture brand- or season-specific shows and their related activities, all suffered at the hand of Covid-19.
Solutions, Ideas, Renewal
As fashion journalist Roxanne Robinson said, “crisis forces change,” highlighting the imperative need to change the system in light of the pandemic. Some entrepreneurs quickly adapted their production. While having suffered financial losses, haute couture brands also participated in philanthropic activities and in some respect have been able to continue production on pandemic-specific merchandise. As pre-Covid global trade and transport mobility has largely become unattainable, new systems and networks need to be renegotiated. And the key phrases should be common sense and transparency. Indigenous costume practices could also offer potential ideas for a sustainable fashion industry reinvention, while also choosing quality over quantity.
New trends emerge with the forced full digitalization of the fashion industry. But it’s also a creative opportunity for innovating the very nature of protective gear. Online live streaming has also become a preferred option. Armani streamed its Milan Fashion Week shows without public. Another possibility is to simply stream from home. But the online presence model comes with its own challenges. A functional presentation website, a trustworthy online store or engagement on e-commerce platforms, and social media relevance, require know-how and time otherwise spent creatively. But fashion transcends the textile industry, therefore answers also come from specialists in other fields. The pursuit of sustainable fashion thus offers opportunities for biochemists and scientists to propose and implement solutions.
''Locally produced goods no longer represent a niche market, but a necessary step in restarting the economy.''
Switching to online fashion business also implies rethinking fashion marketing, particularly in the ability to replicate the pre-pandemic sale numbers in physical stores. Production and supply chains must also be reconsidered, as industries worldwide have realized the pitfalls of basing their raw or finite goods supplies from foreign sources. Locally produced goods no longer represent a niche market, but a necessary step in restarting the economy. It is safe to assume that the main idea for fashion retailers and brands, particularly smaller businesses, will be akin to “locally produced, shipped anywhere.” Sustainability becomes even more relevant in the current socio-economic context, with the heavy strain on our climate and air quality. Promoting slower practices and recycling are important markers for rebranding, abandoning market over-saturation with short-lived products which eventually become pollutants. There is an imperative need for moderation both in fashion industry practices and consumer behaviour.
We Can Already Find Success Stories
The fashion-savvy public, consumers and activists have been campaigning for a responsible fashion industry for years, but due to the current global situation, never has the momentum been stronger. The Covid-19 crisis also generated a platform for companies and newly-created organisations to implement positive and creative solutions and initiatives, while celebrities have been championing reusing former red carpet outfits in 2020. While the future is still unwritten, conscious fashion designers will learn and adapt to the times, but at the same time companies that will wish to maintain the old paradigm could potentially be swayed towards “greener” practices through consumer power
''Masks have become fashion accessories, ways to assert one’s fashionable identity.'
As the global distribution of protection gear has been curtailed, there are cases throughout the world of textile retailers who quickly decided to shift their focus towards producing masks or protective scrubs or coats. As with any industry, the spectrum varies from government contracts, specific pro-bono orders for those in the first lines, but there are also cases of high fashion brands marketing on the need for mask. Masks have become fashion accessories, ways to assert one’s fashionable identity. This also implies a steep rise in prices for those seeking high fashion brands.
Staying at home has also ensured that garments that are usually part of our intimate wardrobe, like nightgowns, are now public fashion statements in themselves. Mandatory mask wearing will most likely affect everyday fashion in public spaces, illustrated by the new Trikini bathing suits and mask sets, or upcycling packaging into designer handbags. Another proposal is clothes rental through subscription boxes, which is already a developed market in Romania as well.
Romanian entrepreneurs have stepped up on this issue as early as March 2020, both on an entrepreneurial and governmental level. The reasons for this direction switch vary according to each situation. For instance, Emilia Ispas started producing cotton-based masks, as she explains it, out of necessity, as otherwise she would have been bankrupt. Another example is Silvia Șerban , one of the few Romanian designers applying upcycling in fashion, stressing the importance of sustainability in the industry. But this is only a temporary survival mechanism, as the ensuing limitations in workforce and profit [Romanian] are clear even to the untrained eye. Romanian designers have also chosen philanthropy instead of profit. For example, Luminița Balazs has chosen to donate all the masks from her Galeria de stil (Style Gallery) . On the other hand, designer Silvia Alexandra Steriopol from Monsas stated that she switched to producing masks to prevent technical unemployment for her staff.
''The Romanian fashion industry, including its textile aspect, can become one of the safety nets for the Romanian economy in terms of creative, educational and job opportunities.''
Recycling clothes is also a recurring theme, with lower wages and merchandise supplies implying a potential development – and improvement – of the second-hand clothes market. Another potential consequence is the increase in online fashion sales [Romanian], which could save the industry from a catastrophic collapse.
The Romanian fashion industry, including its textile aspect, can become one of the safety nets for the Romanian economy in terms of creative, educational and job opportunities, but also in enhancing community cohesion. As the materials and workforce would now be sourced locally, this can also help create a network of creative ideas, employment possibilities and emotional fulfilment for those involved in all aspects of the conception, production, marketing and distribution. It is also an opportunity for unemployed women with sewing or knitting skills to find work. As in the West, companies or consortiums can offer scholarships of grants for those seeking to enter the field and students with relevant talents.
leave a reply